How To Ride A Horse Down A Slope

September 1, 2012 By Leave a Comment

When trail riding, you’re expected to follow proper riding etiquette for uphill or downhill riding. As is the case with all aspects of horse riding, success is dependent upon good balance.

Even when freed from riders, a pony finds travelling downhill tricky. The problem is compounded when he has a rider astride. It is necessary that you ease his strain as much as you can. Your pony will signal his trouble in terribly obvious ways: he will tend to rush or to throw his head. He may even try some bucking. All of this indicates that he’s having a hard time with his balance.

Again as is the case with all aspects of pony riding, make sure your saddle is fitted completely correct. Shifting saddles cause discomfort, even agony; horses tend to go faster than necessary, even when they are on a slope, to get away from the discomfort. You need to also find out all about riding on slopes before you attempt to do so. Remember, it’s not just the pony, you also , as the rider, can make a major difference.

Here is the common mistake made by riders, particularly the beginners, while going downhill: they get their horses to zigzag down the slope. They have the mistaken impression this is more safe. In reality, though, this isn’t a good idea on slopes without trails or switchbacks. When you get a horse to go diagonally down a slope, your pony will be incapable of finding balance at his hindquarters. He is most balanced when his hindquarters are aligned with the rest of his body; otherwise he is likely to keel over. That would not be a nice thing, would it?

The great temptation is to fiddle around with your position in the saddle when riding down a slope, however it is dangerous to give in to this temptation. You must stay put as you are , balancing your body over your feet and with your weight bearing down on your heels. Continue looking up and forward, not downward.

Another tendency is for riders to lean back in the mistaken impression this’ll help the pony. It does not. The horse desires free hindquarters to move easily, and you will obstruct rather than help by leaning back. It is really better to lean slightly forward.

In general, it is recommended not to interfere in the slightest. Beginner riders feel safer gripping the reins hard when on the way down a slope, but ideally you should let your horse have tons of free rein so his head and neck can move freely. By tightening up on the reins, you are hampering him and putting him off balance, therefore endangering both his well being and yours.

As a beginner, you must practice going down some mild slopes before you progressively move onto the big bullies. Practice keeping your position and your balance, and letting the pony have his way. Try and make it second nature to relax on slopes.

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How To Switch A Dressage Whip

September 1, 2012 By Leave a Comment

I see that a lot of dressage riders face difficulty in smoothly switching their long whips between their hands. When I ask them about their problem, they respond that they feel constricted because of their fear of making their horses uncomfortable and of disrupting contact by twisting the bits in the horses’ mouth.

In the paragraphs that follow, I describe a detailed a procedure to switch the whip from one hand to the other without disrupting contact with the horse’s mouth. It would be best if one was to at first practice this technique with a bridle hung from a hook on the wall or by running a length of rope round a horizontal bar ‘like in a fence’ and using it like your two reins.

Your objective is to practice the process until it becomes deep-dyed, a second nature reaction. It’ll be absolutely necessary for you to keep practicing it in a mechanical left-brained kind of way till it shifts over to the brain’s right side and becomes an automated habit. This is precisely why you have to practice it when you are not on a horse.

1. Take up both whip and reins in one hand. For the sake of this, we’ll assume it is your right hand.

2. Turn the right hand until the thumb faces down and the small finger points up. When your hand is in this position, the whip’s butt end should be pointing at the horse’s withers and the lash end should point straight up.

3. Turn your left hand over and place it so the left thumb rests on top of the right little finger.

4. Keep your left hand in this ‘upside down’ position and curl its fingers around your whip.

5. Release the whip from your right hand and move the left hand so that the whip points straight down. The whip should be gripped in your left hand and the reins in your right.

6. Split up the reins and pass one to the left hand.

You should have succeeded in smooth switching the dressage whip from one hand to the other and have avoided disturbing the bit in the horse’s mouth.

Horses are Heather Tomspassion and she enjoys sharing her extensive knowledge through her 100s of articles with other horse lovers http://horsehorses.net/

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Why Riding Horses Is The Best Fun Ever

August 30, 2012 By Leave a Comment

If you have ever been an equestrian event rider, or a ranch hand, or simply a pleasure rider. Well, even if you have been around horses without really riding them, you know exactly how much fun these animals can be. If you’re among those lucky few who actually own horses, then you don’t need me to tell you just how fortunate you are. Caring for animals, especially horses, can be very healing. Horses are like cats, they make fascinating, intriguing animals, only horses are a ton warmer and responsive than cats. Again like cats, horses come in a container load of breeds, colours and sizes.

For plenty of people, the first ride on horseback can be a bit of a scary experience. But invariably, once these nervous beginners start to get into it, they find horse riding addictive. They just don’t appear to get enough. There are a few types of riding styles and there are lots of options in gear, too. Western and English style saddles make for 2 of the most popular saddle types. In America, your first ride plus several of your future rides are bound going to be on saddles of the western style. You will find a whole range of saddles designed for definite purposes: racing, eventing, rodeos and such like but the western saddle is more generally used for pleasure riding.

If you go through a proper horse riding instructional course, one of the first things you are taught will be the significance and usage of the reins. You will also be taught basic cues and commands. If your learning is taking place at a ranch or a riding stable, the horses are very aware of the routine, and don’t need any prodding. They simply follow each other in giving their riders slow, secure and cushy rides.

Even for the most hoardy horseman, horseback riding remains a great excitement. Whether you are a veteran or a newbie, and whether your pony is a docile or a bit of a scamp, you can have superb fun pony riding as long as your horse doesn’t fool around too much. Horses employed in events like barrel racing or jumpers have been put thru the grind of countless hours of practice, as you’ll learn if you ever go to one of those events. You’ll see for yourself the trust and coordination which exist between pony and rider. The trust and coordination is a vital element of horse riding, whether at a rank beginner’s level, a non-professional level or a professional level. Horses that are used in riding schools and dude ranches are trained to adapt to different people, and they are at ease with practically anyone who rides them. A lot of these horses have a tendency to be tame and lethargic, though some still breathe fire.

You can ride your pony on mountain rides, trail rides, freestyle rides and pony rides. When you have your own pony, you will soon discover a favourite route to a favourite destination. Remember that horses need to be trained to go across bridges, wade through water and negotiate water.

Every pony needs only the right gear to ensure the comfort and safety of itself and its rider. Horses are shoed to keep their hoofs from harm.

Sometimes, horses are groomed and made to relax after an arduous day of effort. They are washed and brushed and left all alone for the night.

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The Advantage Of Horse Training With Friends

August 27, 2012 By Leave a Comment

Forming a group is a good way of improving your horse riding talents. When you do your learning and practicing in the companionship of others who share your enthusiasm for pony riding, you are greatly accelerating the prospects of a very successful outcome to your efforts. You must practice together, attend clinics and workshops together and debate techniques together. Obviously, your group should ideally include your trainer.

As one part of a group, you are given occasions to watch other riders learn and implement, and you can learn a load more simply by watching, assessing and absorbing. It is usually simpler to be objective with others than with yourself. You can see your trainer and his trainee horses and riders at work, and that will help you remove any doubts or confusion you’ll have about any particular aspect of your trainer’s instructions. Naturally, if you are uncertain about something, it’s possible to ask!

Human beings use written, spoken and cultural mediums, amongst others, to communicate and learn . As far as horses are concerned, communication consists largly of body language as their most significant medium. Since you’re the one with the capacity to think laterally, it is up to you to reach out to your pony with language it’ll understand and pay heed to. It is up to you to get your pony to execute its moves superbly.

Have you any idea of the way Spanish riders work with their ‘Lizzipaner’ horses?

Whether you live bang downtown in a giant city or out in the country miles from your nearest neighbour, you can always keep in touch using the modern miracles of communication: the telephone, fax, and most of all, the email and other computer-based communication systems. You can receive and send text, graphic, video and audio files, If you live in a convenient distance with other members of your group, you can have regular joint riding classes, regular meetings and interactive sessions where you can regularly compare notes and improve yourselves.

There is strength in unity, and the load of learning becomes very easy to bear when shared.

Horses are Heather Tomspassion and she enjoys sharing her extensive knowledge through her 100s of articles with other horse lovers http://horsehorses.net/

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Some Horse Groundwork Training

August 23, 2012 By Leave a Comment

The fundamentals of groundwork are an indispensable component of equine training.

The 2 most imperative issues in horsemanship are the understanding basic equine nature and conscientiously performing strong foundational groundwork. The previous opens channels of communication between human and pony and the second consolidates that relationship. You can’t do a good job with your pony unless you are bonding strongly with it. Groundwork assists you in mastering the subtleties of advanced horsemanship because it gives you essential insights into the personality and character of your horse.

It is critical that both you and your horse enter the pen in a positive mind-set. This helps achieve total concentration on teaching and learning, and it helps achieve total coordination. Neither of you is going to be concentrating much on matters at hand if you’re grouchy. You need to make your groundwork sessions the type of fun that expedites comprehensive teaching and effective learning.

The round pen

Don’t think of your round pen as just another piece of real estate. It’s not a venue to get your pony going around in circles. It is an arena where much is to be accomplished. You use this arena to put your pony through the paces while at the exact same time strengthening your bond with him and yet establishing your dominance in the relationship. This arena helps you and your pony to appreciate and respect each other, and to realize top mutual communication and coordination. It is where you introduce your horse to new thoughts and actions and make him adopt them.

A critical part of groundwork is moving your horse’s feet. The most important teaching tool you can employ is patience, You will find frequently that your horse doesn’t get it the 1st time, no matter how accomplished you are at conveying what you need. You have your way by dint of sheer repetition and tolerance. Keep your cues clear and unmistakable; horses are attuned to body language and pressure application. Ideally, repetition will permit you and your pony to master things to the extent that the desired actions and reactions become automatic.

Groundwork

– Your horse must be comfortable with the fit of his tack and be kept in a happy mood; these issues are absolutely mandatory if he is to take in his coaching well.

– Use less oral and more physical cues, but if you find that your pony likes to hear you prattling on about things in general, give him some conversation without letting it interfere with the training.

– Be consistent in your actions. You have got to make the horse totally sensitive and responsive to your physical cues.

– Pressure is your principal instrument, learn to use it effectively. Don’t forget that horses try to escape pressure.

– Ensure both diagonals are exercised equally by working clockwise and counter-clockwise.

– It is just as important to learn how to spontaneously stop your pony as it is to have him advance on command.

– In a rather subtle way, all endeavours in the pen are a clash of will, and so it is vital that you establish your domination straight away. Your pony will attempt to get the better of you by testing ways of escaping the pressure you are exerting. Be gentle but firm. And don’t forget to reward your pony for everything he does right, more positive reward than negative.

As time rolls by, your pony will awake to the incontrovertible fact that he is far better off bending to your will. When he comes to that realisation, he will be able to also accept that you know what will be best for him.

Be very sensitive to your horse’s body language. Don’t ignore the messages he’s making an attempt to convey to you.

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How To Get Your Horses To Do A Great Free Walk

August 19, 2012 By Leave a Comment

1. What is a free walk?

It’s a relaxed gait.

2. What should a free walk look like?

The frame should be lengthened, and your pony should lower his head and neck in just such a way it seems like he’s grazing. His poll should be lower than the withers.

He should open up his throatlatch angle so that his nose is pointing rather forward. He should appear to be stretching at the bit.

His strides should get longer so that he begins to cover more track.

3. How is transition at commencement of a free walk done?

A good free walk depends on correct preparation. You prepare for a free walk in just how you prepare for a ‘stretchy’ circle on the trot.

While still in a medium walk, you execute a connecting half halt over about 3 or 4 seconds on your short side.

You give a connecting half halt by creating energy: you close both your calves like you are asking for a lengthening. But in reality your horse shouldn’t lengthen.

Make a fist of your outer hand to capture and contain, then recycle energy to the horse’s hind legs.

Maintain closed legs and outer hand for 3 or 4 seconds, and while in this position, squeeze or vibrate on the inside rein and release it to stop your pony from arching his neck outwards.

Ensure your legs are relaxed while going into the diagonal and open your fingers to allow your horse to get rid of the reins from your hands.

4. How to transition back to a medium walk?

You do so with the connecting half halt that you used for your free walk preparation.

Press gently with the calves even as the reins reman long.

While shortening the reins, maintain a closed fist of the new outer hand; squeeze with your new inner hand and release it.

5. What do you do with a lazy horse?

‘Breathe’ with your legs if the pony isn’t showing much energy,

You do this by:

– Raising your legs off his sides

– Moving them back an in. or so and replacing them lightly.

You achieve two things by breathing your legs. Your horse is probably numb to the feel of your legs if you’ve been indulging in excessive gripping. Removing your legs and replacing them lightly enables him to get back his sensitivity. When you move your legs back, you place them nearer your horse’s ‘engine’; this is a reminder to him that he should more actively use his rear legs.

6. What do you do with a horse that appears to want to jig?

If he is showing an inclination to jig, execute 1 or 2 transitions to the halt.

Give your horse some praise after each halt.

He will be able to soon be able to predict a stop or a slow down.

That’s the time you use ‘stopping aids’ in a little way to remind him that he should stick to a flat-footed four-beat walk while you go across the diagonal.

If your pony has a predisposition to jig as you raise the reins after a diagonal, come to a halt first and pick your reins up on the halt. This way, you’ll train your horse to keep slow on occasions you are doing a transition.

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How To Train Your Pony To Not Resist Being Tied

August 19, 2012 By Leave a Comment

If you’ve been around horses, you must have seen horses that just didn’t take to getting tied? They set back and struggle against their rope. It doesn’t make for a pleasant picture, and it can essentially be deadly. I recollect a girl went inside on a brief errand, leaving her horse tied to the porch railing. When she returned, the railing had a gap in it and the missing piece was tumbling and twisting after her pony as he ran around attempting to shake it off. He was injured as it kept banging into his legs, and the vet bill that resulted was stiff. That was a point learned hard and costly. You don’t tie a pony to something that might give. Most horses don’t react well to that.

What’s the best strategy of grounding a pony? Over the years I have experimented with plenty of techniques that I heard of and read about here and there, although not one of them was really effective. I finally found that what natural horsemanship teaches you is the best solution: it is really easy on the pony and raises no difficulties at all. You teach your pony to give to the smallest of lead line pressure.

Get started by putting a rope halter on your horse. Don’t use the leather or the flat web type. Horses feel rope halters better and cannot ignore their pressure by leaning against them. With delicate and steady pressure on the rope, get the horse to incline its head toward you as you stand by his shoulder. With each movement of his head, however slight, give him a rub. Repeat the method again and again from one side, then switch over to the other side. You should achieve instinctive response to the cue, and also a fuller bending of the head. It is important to release the pressure as fast as your pony gives, even if it is just a bit.

Then go to chapter two: put some pressure on the rope to get your horse to come towards you as you stand in front of him. Don’t fight resistance; just maintain steady pressure till the horse gives. As quickly as he does so , release the pressure.

You can test your horse to determine if he has actually learned to give to pressure by watching him while he’s grazing. If he makes an attempt to jerk his head up when he steps on the lead, you know there is some way to go. If on the other hand he keeps his head down as he steps off the lead, you know he has learned well.

And now, of course, we come to the crux: how is all this connected to tying your pony? When a pony develops the practice of giving to pressure, he’s going to stay tied. When he responds by giving rather than jerking away, he won’t resist being tied. You should not fret if the method of teaching your pony to give to pressure takes time; you’re getting rid of his ingrained bias of setting back. It will be worth all of the time and labour you spend on it, because once your horse is absolutely trained you’ve got an animal who is responsive and safe. In addition, you will be ready to lead your horse without constantly yanking at the rope, and obviously, when it is time to ask for collection under the saddle, you have got a horse that gives to pressure instantly.

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Understanding Horse Actions

August 10, 2012 By Leave a Comment

At rest, a horse puts his weight on one front leg and on one rear leg on the opposite side. If you consider the 4 legs as four corners of a rectangle, the horse stands with his weight on diagonally opposite legs. If you study a still horse for some time, you will see him shifting weight every once in a while from one set of diagonally opposite legs to the other.

That is the way in which he moves, as well. He leads off with a rear leg, followed by the diagonally opposite front leg, then the other rear leg and the other front leg. The various speeds of his forward movement are called gaits.

To understand a horse’s motion and momentum, you only need to realise the idea that each front leg, though independent physically, takes up and continues the motion activated by the diagonally opposite rear leg.

It could be tough to grasp this concept because the average homo sapien never bothers to think rationally about the way 4 footed animals loco mote. Yet it is sensible if you keep at the back of your mind: no 4 footed animal can launch itself by lifting both feet on one side off the ground. It is going to lean over and go crash on to the ground. Try and imagine a horse with a rider astride taking off by lifting both feet on one side!

And some animals, especially the canine and feline species, alternate between both front feet and both back feet only when they are running at high speed. Ever seen a leopard on screen or in real life at full glorious stretch?

So, for most gaits the horse goes through a first rear-opposite front-second rear-opposite front cycle. Clearly, the faster the horse is moving, the speedier the cycle is repeating itself.

Before we are able to proceed past this point it needs to be accepted that each pair of legs have a specific task to perform not just during standing, but also particularly during the movement cycles or gaits.

Apart from their role in sustaining motion, the front legs are used by the horse to switch direction, and the rear legs are the prime mover. They provide the thrust. They’re the more powerful legs, attached to the massive muscular mass of the horse’s lower torso.

Hopefully, that should have given you an idea of the particular mechanism involving his 4 legs that a horse uses to push himself forward. You can call it a four-stroke mechanism if you like. The momentum of each cycle is composed of 3 parts:

1). Creation of momentum, when the first movement is begun with either of the rear legs;

2). Continuance of momentum, when the opposite front leg takes over more to sustain balance and direction than to add power to the forward thrust, followed by the thrust of the other rear leg and the balance and direction of the other front leg;

3). Sustenance of momentum, when the four legs alternate in repeating cycles; the quantity of cycles per unit time determines the speed of forward movement.

You need to appreciate nature’s diversity. Ever tried to go down on all 4s and advance in imitation of a horse? You’ll find your own shortage of coordination funny.

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How Natural Horsemanship Trains Horses

August 10, 2012 By Leave a Comment

When teaching horses, you must remember that the equine species needs repetition and more repetition to learn well. A horse may often need 5 or 50 repetitions of instructions to finally grasp the action, and the point is this: if you are incapable of exercising great patience, you haven’t got any business teaching horses. If you approach your pony the right way, you’ll find that as the training advances, your bonding with your horse swiftly improves, and in turn, that reduces his learning cycles.

Try to stick to those systems that have successfully withstood the test of time. To my mind, pony coaching isn’t a matter that calls for extensive creativity. The strategies that have come down through the ages are the ones that have appeared successfully through years of trial and error, and they have served generations and generations of horsemen very well. You can use innovation to adapt them to your precise circumstances, but don’t tinker with the basics.

You will struggle to find a better approach than natural horsemanship. This method emphasises the need to understand equine psychology and a bit of the history of horsemanship as a prerequisite to pre-eminence in coaching. It is very important to be well capable in these subjects to gain maximum effectiveness.

Some significant features of coaching primarily based on natural horsemanship

* Natural horsemanship eschews force and negative reinforcement while coaching. This strategy believes in the efficacy of easy-handed convincing. It is attested for by famous reporters like Laura Hillenbrand who have specialized in equine matters.

* Each problem related to pony training has a solution. The responsibility lies on the trainer to come up with the ideal solution to every issue that arises. You’ll find that as you pursue your coaching endeavours, you become a much improved human being even as your horse learns more and becomes a better animal for it.

* Keep one thing in mind: if the pony is not responding well, the issue most probably ensues from the coach.

* Keep your consciousness and perspective free of the sort of unhealthy attitudes that surface from ownership pride.

* In the opening stages, don’t spend time on aspects to do with riding your pony. The much more important thing is to bond fully with the pony; this makes him a miles better learner and makes your future coaching a cake walk.

* Horses have herd instincts. Since they’re prey animals, they have also got robust survival instincts. They naturally have a tendency to form herds as a survival mechanism. You must keep this under consideration as you train your pony, because this knowledge will be instrumental in helping you understand horses.

* Horses use body signals extensively as a means of communication with each other. You may gain hugely by watching them closely. Be especially alert to their use of their ears, eyes and body position to convey emotions, alerts and moods.

* The horse’s head position is a good indicator of its mood. If the head is bowed, the pony is feeling submissive; if the head is raised, the horse might be feeling anxious or rebellious.

You need to govern your pony with an iron fist in velvet gloves. NEVER use the fist to strike, though. Once he becomes used to the idea that you are the leader, your pony will enthusiastically follow you. But before things reach that stage, he is perhaps going to try you out. He is going to go against you simply to check if you are resolute of purpose. Once you convince him that you are , he’ll be fine. Just accept the incontrovertible fact that even as you are teaching your horse, you are learning things yourself. Have patience and you’ll soon see the massive benefits of natural horsemanship.

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Why Perfect The Art Of Horse Riding Without Stirrups

August 4, 2012 By Leave a Comment

You can’t deny the importance of stirrups to a rider. Stirrups are an essential item on the pony tack list. Riders use stirrups for mounting, dismounting, balance, pony control and occasionally for protecting themselves from a potential fall.

So why in the name of all that is horse heaven do instructors demand that their students learn to ride without stirrups? If you’ve ever been baffled by this question, I’ve got some clarifications for you.

Before I answer the problem of why instructors ask students to ride sans stirrups, I have got a bit of information for you. When riding without your stirrups, lay them across the horse’s neck or the shoulders, but don’t lay them across your saddle. It will take you simply one experience with severely bruised things to learn this lesson yourself the tough way, but I am protecting you from that experience. Laying the stirrups across the horse’s shoulders and neck will cause him no discomfort. The stirrups will bounce in complete harmony with the horse’s movements. Try to get the buckle away from the stirrup bar, and place this across the horse’s neck. You can avoid pinching and bruising your upper legs by doing this and shoving the stirrup leather flat underneath the saddle’s skirt.

Riding without stirrups is designed to help you analyse and enhance your sense of balance and stability. When you’re riding without the security of the stirrups, you are presenting your instructor with a naked view of your capabilities, or absence of them. When you’re without stirrups, you’ve got to sort of feel out the position astride your pony that works best for you , and that may involve a large amount of wriggling and shifting. While the natural bias is to rock forward so that you can absorb the impact of the horse’s movements better thru the upper part of your body (and also because the horse’s neck can be grabbed if required) this will make the horse tense. You must relax and sit back. You have to learn how to absorb the impact of movement thru your lower body areas: the lower back, hips and pelvis. The higher part of your body should be upright and still, moving just enough to flow with the horse’s movements. You need to attempt to sit as loosely as practical in just such a way that your weight presses down on the horse’s centre of gravity.

Riding without stirrups helps nervous riders gain some confidence. Although it can be a rather terrifying experience at the outset, riding a gentle pony without stirrups will improve your sense of balance and give you better control of application of aids. If you are especially uncomfortable at the beginning, you should not feel humbled to suggest that you start at a walk. Once you feel comfortable with that, you can slowly progress to a trot and then to a canter. No-stirrup work actually develops your sense of security, but you shouldn’t be averse to admitting your 1st fear. It’s better to begin slow and build up. Excess fear can communicate itself to the horse.

The rider with more experience benefits from no-stirrup work in that she or he is able to develop a sense of feel and reduce riding stress. Stress can build up without the rider even being mindful of it: it can begin at the ankles, at the neck or at the back and shoulders. You become a better rider when you’re really aware of your body and the signals it is transmitting.

The inception of stirrups is military, they were designed as part of horse tack to enable cavalry riders to stay stable during battle. Clearly, in the days before stirrups were invented every rider rode without them, many riders rode with no pony tack of any type whatsoever. Accesorios fluo . Since horseback fighting is kind of a part of history now, it can be contended that we do not need stirrups anymore. But like all devices that ease life, once we have got it, we don’t wish to give it up. If you really intend to become a top class rider, though, you must perfect the art of riding without stirrups.

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